![]() Oh, and get a qualified electrician to do the job: it'll take them 15-20 mins. However, everything I've said here could be wrong, and only testing the conductors with appropriate test equipment on a dead circuit can verify what conductor has actually been used for what purpose. It is "the single black neutral wire" that needs to be connected to the live (brown) side of the lamp. Those 3 live conductors should NOT be connected to the lamp at all, but are using a common connection point to take a conductor to the switch. What you have done is to connect the switch feed, loop in & loop out live conductors directly to the lamp so it's permanently on, leaving the "the single black neutral wire" (your switch wire) goodness knows where - hopefully connected securely away from other neutral & earth conductors. Often times, electricians omit to use sleeving. Good practice is to add sleeving (red in the old days, brown these days) over the conductor to indicate that the conductor is actually live rather than what might be suggested by the colour of the insulation. The wire you're calling "the single black neutral wire" is actually the live coming back from the switch. Connect the live (brown) core of the pendant flex to the live terminal and the neutral (blue) core to the neutral terminal.My immediate response is to get a qualified electrician in as you're one step away from blowing the fuse/circuit breaker or killing yourself. When installing two new pendant lights to hang over the kitchen island, I have discovered that one of the two lights has DOUBLE the wiring that I would. ![]() Take the earth core to the earth terminal, covering it in green/yellow sleeving.ĥ. At the new rose, connect the brown core to the terminal marked ‘live’ and the blue core to the terminal marked ‘neutral’.Ĥ. The earth core goes to the earth terminal.ģ. This connects its brown core to the same terminal as the switch drop blue core (which should carry a length of brown PVC sleeving to show it can be live) and its blue core to the neutral circuit cores. Run a spur cable from the original ceiling rose. Run a length of 1 mm² two-core-and-earth cable from there to the new fitting. Then cut the feed cable to the original light at a suitable position to install a three-terminal junction box.ģ. First, double check the circuit is dead.Ģ. Ceiling light fittings with metal parts must be earthed via three-core flex unless they’re labelled as double-insulated.
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